Winter Rose Protection

Each winter in our area is different.  What works for winter protection one year may not work the next.

Winter protection begins with proper selection, proper planting and healthy bushes.  A weak bush will not have the proper reserves to take it through our cold winters.

Roses are woody perennials.  They need to go dormant in our climate.  Don’t protect too early.  Let the plant “cool off” naturally.  Early frosts will not harm the bushes.  They signal the plant to begin going dormant.  This is the time for you to prepare your method of winter protection.

Rose cones are a very common sight here in Milwaukee; however, often they are incorrectly used. Cones should have a solid top to prevent snow and ice from melting unto the plant. Four or five quarter-sized holes should be punched on the sides near the top of the cone to allow for air circulation. Keep a careful eye on the daytime temperatures. Our January thaws and early spring “teases” necessitate the removal of the cones during the day to prevent heat build-up. Be sure to replace the cones before evening.

Soil can be mounded on the rose to a depth of 10-12 inches, or a few shovelsful for a miniature. Come spring, slowly wash away the soil as the daytime temperatures rise.

For semi-hardy varieties, a layer of oak leaves will do very nicely. Other types of leaves tend to mat during the winter causing problems for the rose.

The most dangerous time for roses is the early spring with our cold winds that will desiccate a rose cane within hours. Use an anti-dessicant in fall and again in spring.  Don’t rush your uncovering.

The best winter protection is to pick varieties that are hardy to this area. It saves you time, labor and heartaches. If you like those tender roses that need protection, you may want to consider them garden annuals!

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